Shingle Roof Repair in NJ: Missing, Damaged and Worn Asphalt Shingles Fixed Right

3-tab shingles are single-layer and flat, architectural shingles are two or more laminated layers with a dimensional look, and designer shingles are heavier multi-layer products built to look like slate or cedar shake.

3-tab (strip) shingles. One flat layer of fiberglass mat coated in asphalt and granules, with two cutouts that make each strip look like three separate tabs. They were the standard on NJ tract housing for decades. They are light, cheap and easy to install, but they are also the most likely to lift and crease in wind because the thin tab gives the wind an easy edge. Roof Observations lists a regular 3-tab service life of about 12 to 25 years, and premium 3-tab at about 20 to 35 years.

Architectural (laminated or dimensional) shingles. Two layers bonded together, with the lower layer showing through irregular cutouts to create shadow lines. They are thicker and heavier than 3-tab, usually carry higher wind ratings, and hide minor deck unevenness better. This is what most NJ re-roofs use now. Regular architectural shingles are rated at roughly 25 to 40 years of service life and premium architectural at 35 to 50, though actual life on a given NJ roof depends on ventilation, exposure and installation.

Designer (luxury) shingles. Thicker, multi-layer shingles with larger tabs or shaped edges meant to mimic slate or hand-split shake. You see them on newer custom homes and on older homes in places like Montclair, Princeton or Summit where owners want a slate look at a fraction of the weight and cost. They are the most expensive to buy, about $9.85 per square foot installed in NJ by the Roof Observations figures, and the hardest to match years later because product lines and colors change.

What this means for repairs. All three are repaired by releasing seals and nails and slipping in a new piece. You cannot mix types on the same slope without it showing, and you should not mix a 3-tab and an architectural on one roof plane for looks and wind performance. Knowing exactly what you have is the first step of every repair we do.

A proper shingle repair removes the damaged shingle completely and installs a new one in the correct nailing zone, then reseals everything that was lifted. Gluing a tab back down or smearing roofing cement over a crack is a temporary measure.

Single-shingle replacement. Each shingle is held by four or more of its own nails and by the nails of the course above, which pass through its top. We break the seal strips on the damaged shingle and on the one above it with a flat bar, slide the bar under each nail head and pull it, then remove the shingle. The new shingle goes in aligned with the existing courses, nailed in the manufacturer’s nailing zone, and the course above is re-nailed through its own line. Every lifted tab is then sealed down.

Re-sealing lifted tabs. If a tab has lifted but is not creased or torn, it can be cleaned and resealed with asphalt roofing cement. If the mat is creased across its width, it has lost its strength and should be replaced, because it will tear off in the next strong wind.

Nail pops. We pull the popped nail, install a new nail beside it in solid sheathing, and seal the old hole. Smearing caulk over a raised nail head leaves the nail free to keep backing out.

Ridge cap repairs. Ridge cap shingles take the most wind and sun on the roof. Cracked or blown-off ridge pieces get replaced with matching ridge cap, nailed with longer fasteners that reach solid wood, and the exposed nail heads on the last piece are sealed. If the ridge is vented, we make sure the replacement does not block the ridge vent.

Starter strip repairs. The starter strip is the adhesive-backed row at the eaves and rakes that seals the first course down. A missing or failed starter is a common reason the bottom row and the rake edges blow off. We add or replace starter during repairs at those edges.

Temporary fixes. After a storm, before matched shingles arrive, we can tarp or install a temporary patch. That is covered on our emergency roof repair page.

A good shingle match starts with identifying the exact product, and when that product is discontinued, the fix is the closest current color, a borrowed shingle from a hidden slope, or re-shingling the visible plane.

Finding out what you have. The fastest clue is a leftover bundle or wrapper in the garage, basement or attic, which shows the manufacturer, product line and color. Closing paperwork or a roofing invoice from the last owner can help too. Without that, we measure the shingle, note the exposure, the cutout shape and the shadow-line pattern, and compare it with current and recently discontinued lines.

Why new shingles look different. Even the same color from the same manufacturer will look brighter than shingles that have weathered for ten years. Granule blends also shift between production runs and plants. Most of that difference fades as the new shingles weather, but a strong mismatch on a front slope can stay noticeable.

When the product is discontinued. Shingle lines and sizes change over time, and older metric and non-metric sizes do not always line up. Our options are:

• Pick the closest current color and dimension and show you a sample against the roof before ordering.
• Take sound shingles from a hidden area, like a rear dormer or a low back porch, use them on the visible repair, and put the new shingles where they will not be seen.
• Re-shingle the entire affected plane, ridge to eave and rake to rake, so the change follows a natural break line.

Insurance and matching. When storm damage leaves you with a visible mismatch, how much your policy pays to make the roof uniform depends on the policy language and how your insurer handles it. We document the product, the search for a match and photos of the result. That gives your adjuster something to work from. Our storm damage roof repair page covers the claim side in more detail.

Sizes must match too. A shingle with a different exposure or length will not line up with the courses around it and can leave nails exposed. If we cannot get a dimension that fits, we tell you and recommend re-shingling the plane.

A durable shingle installation in NJ has a clean deck, drip edge, ice barrier at the eaves and valleys, underlayment, starter strip at eaves and rakes, shingles nailed in the nailing zone, and a vented ridge. Shortcuts on any one of those show up as blow-offs or leaks later.

Deck and edges. We tear off to the sheathing, re-nail loose plywood and replace soft sections. The International Residential Code requires drip edge at the eaves and rakes of shingle roofs. Drip edge supports the shingle edge and directs water into the gutter instead of behind the fascia.

Ice barrier and underlayment. The code requires an ice barrier membrane where there is a history of ice forming at the eaves, extending from the eave edge to a point inside the exterior wall line. That describes much of New Jersey and especially the northwest. We also run membrane in valleys and around chimneys and skylights, then underlayment over the rest of the deck.

Starter strip. A purpose-made starter strip goes along the eaves and up the rakes. Its sealant bonds the first course of shingles down, which is where wind uplift usually starts.

Nailing. The IRC requires at least the manufacturer’s minimum number of fasteners, and never fewer than four per strip shingle. Nails must be corrosion-resistant roofing nails with at least a 12-gauge shank and a 3/8-inch head, long enough to go at least 3/4 inch into the sheathing or through it. Many manufacturers call for six nails for high-wind areas or to qualify for their top wind warranty. Nails go in the marked nailing zone, driven flush. High nails are the most common install defect we see on blown-off shingles.

Wind ratings. Self-sealing shingles are classified under ASTM D7158: Class D for 115 mph, Class G for 150 mph and Class H for 190 mph design wind speeds. Older ratings under ASTM D3161 are Class A (60 mph), Class D (90 mph) and Class F (110 mph). The rating is printed on the bundle label.

Ridge and ventilation. We finish with a ridge vent or other exhaust balanced with soffit intake, then ridge cap. Full replacement is covered on our roof replacement page.

Repair makes sense when the damage is limited, the shingles around it are still flexible and holding granules, and the roof has years of life left; replace a slope or the whole roof when failures are widespread, the roof is near the end of its life, or a match is impossible.

Repair is usually right when:

• A storm took off a handful of shingles or tabs on a roof that is otherwise in good shape.
• The problem is a single nail pop, pipe boot, failed seal or one cracked shingle.
• The surrounding shingles bend without cracking and still have most of their granules.
• You can get a reasonable match, or the repair is on a slope no one sees.

Re-shingle one slope when:

• One face of the roof, often the south or west slope that takes the most sun or the windward side at the Shore, is wearing out faster than the others.
• Repairs on that slope keep coming back every season.
• A storm damaged most of one plane and a spot repair would leave a patchwork.
• The product is discontinued and the damaged slope faces the street.

Replace the whole roof when:

• Granule loss, curling, cupping or cracking show up on most slopes.
• The roof is in the late part of its expected life and you are paying for repairs more than once a year.
• There are already two layers. New Jersey allows at most two, and a third layer needs a permit and is not allowed under code limits, so the next step is a full tear-off.
• The deck is soft in several areas or there are multiple leaks.
• You are planning solar panels. Putting panels on a roof with only a few years left means paying to remove and reset them later.

A useful rule of thumb. If the repair quote approaches a meaningful share of what a new roof would cost and the roof is already past the middle of its life, the repair money is usually better spent on replacement. We put both options in writing so you can compare them. See roof repair cost for full-roof numbers.

For most NJ homes, a good choice is an architectural shingle with a high ASTM D7158 wind class, algae-resistant granules and a full manufacturer system; Shore and hilltop homes should lean toward the highest wind class and six-nail installation.

Wind rating. Look on the bundle label for the ASTM D7158 class (D, G or H) or the ASTM D3161 class (A, D or F). The baseline ASTM D3462 shingle specification already requires at least Class A fire resistance and 60 mph wind resistance, but coastal towns in Ocean, Monmouth, Atlantic and Cape May counties and exposed ridgetop homes in Sussex and Warren benefit from more. Ask your installer what class the product carries and what nailing the manufacturer requires to reach its wind warranty.

Algae resistance. The black streaks on NJ roofs are an algae called Gloeocapsa magma. Algae-resistant shingles use granules containing copper that slowly release copper ions when wet, which keeps the algae from taking hold. Depending on the product, the protection can last a long time. If your roof is shaded or north-facing, algae resistance is worth asking for. For streaks on an existing roof, see roof cleaning.

Impact resistance. Shingles rated UL 2218 Class 4 have passed the highest impact class in the standard’s steel-ball test. Hail is less of an issue in NJ than in the Plains, but impact-rated shingles also resist cracking from falling branches. Some insurers offer discounts for them; ask your agent.

Accessories from the same system. Starter strip, ridge cap, underlayment and ice barrier from the same manufacturer are often required for the higher system warranties. Mixing brands can limit the warranty.

Weight and thickness. Thicker shingles generally last longer. Designer shingles are heavier, which matters on older homes with undersized rafters. We check framing in the attic before recommending a heavy product.

Color and heat. Darker shingles absorb more heat. On a roof with weak attic ventilation, fixing the ventilation does more for shingle life than picking a lighter color.